​Ingredient Information - Kakadu Plum Extract

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​Ingredient Information - Queen Garnet Cellular Extract

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What types of formulas benefit from adding the ingredient from the ChemBox? Which ingredient can it replace?  

When you choose a NATIVE EXTRACTS Cellular Extract, you are choosing nature’s formulation, not just a single compound, but a range of phyto-compounds that a species has evolved over millions of years, through natural selection, and/or in response to its environmental stressors and climatic situation. 

SAMPLE 1 : NE KAKADU PLUM CELLULAR EXTRACT Concentrate
HARNESSING NATURAL VITAMIN C FROM THE WORLD’S HIGHEST SOURCE OF BIOLOGICAL VITAMIN C : Kakadu Plum is still considered the world’s highest source of Vit C, referenced as 100 times more than Oranges. We first publicly launched the ability to harness the highly unstable natural vitamin C molecule in an aqueous format back in 2013. Since 2016, we have made significant advances in concentration and results show that we can hold the molecule over 24 months and counting in our liquid matrix. It is all about having the Vit C molecule in the Kakadu Plums’ water-soluble entourage. We transfer the natural phyto-compounds across the cell membrane, including Vitamin C/biological Ascorbic Acid, Gallic Acid, Tryptophan and Amino acids. There is a great deal of data in the public domain on how these compounds have potential for anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and anti-glycation activity, photo-damage and is worth exploring for well-aging (over anti-aging), sun care, wrinkles, acne, rosacea, hydration, melasma.


How do we suspend natural Vit c? Our current hypothesis we are pursuing is that due to the entourage and support of the other phyto-compounds in concert with the Vit C, we will see some compounds sacrificing, buffering the Vit C compounds, but we have also discovered some proteins that we believe may be contributing to a recycling effect of the natural Vit C molecule. Our amino acid assay of our KP extract also shows the dominate Aa is Arginine. We are continually discovering more from our ongoing research. We first trialled our Kakadu Plum Cellular Extract concentrate in the field in salons, with rapid feedback to it used as a serum for mature skin, pigmentation and condition.
            
 
SAMPLE 2 : THE QUEEN GARNET Cellular Extract Concentrate
ANOTHER WORLD FIRST : An Australian Agri-innovation, old school cross pollination created a “super” plum that is a dark purple due to the high levels of Anthocyanins. Also containing natural sources of Quercetin, Rutin, Epicatechin, Flavonoid Glycosides, Phenolics, Chlorogenic Acid, and more. Public available information on these compounds points to possibilities for use in skin and hair care formulations as well, especially in those that target hyperpigmentation, photo-aging, collagen and elastin support, inflammation reduction, hair growth, hair maintenance and protection, and even reactive skin conditions such as dermatitis, psoriasis, and rosacea…. Your samples will help you trial this new-to-market Queen and see how it works in your formulation.
 

Get to Know Your Supplier

Q - Tell us about your company. What inspired you to get into the cosmetic ingredients industry?  

A - “We wanted to do something “true”, “natural” and “circular” that connected brands and consumers to their ingredients – in and out of the NE Labs. Our brands love to visit our labs for video shoots to share how their natural heroes are created form raw biomass into the liquids that deliver what nature creates through their product(s). We wanted to share our research to inspire innovation, grow knowledge and support the growth of inclusive primary industries.” – Lisa Carroll, NATIVE EXTRACTS’ Director & Innovator

Our initial inspiration was simple, yet game changing at the time. Our journey started in 2012. It’s a big story and continues to evolve as we learn and discover more, but these were our key motivators…

• We were determined to create a “True to Nature” extract that delivered the natural water-soluble molecules available in botanicals, both from traditional popular species as well as unique, lesser known species. We wanted to offer highly valuable water-soluble compounds, specifically in their entourage, presented with their concert of other compounds as they exist in the cell, as nature designed. We built a library of water-soluble compounds and their sources that at the time was considered unprecedented.

 

• Driven to break new ground in the botanical extract industry in, we developed a new category called Cellular ExtractionTM, which delivers a species' synergistic water-soluble phyto-compound profile, unachievable through traditional methods. We transfer water-soluble phyto-compounds across the cell membrane and suspend them in a liquid matrix ready for formulation. We've advanced our methodologies and now bring our advances into the nutraceuticals and ingestibles categories with our highly concentrated, liquid Native EssenXce range as well. 

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• We wanted to offer better understandings of water-soluble plant profiles - The industry was used to plant profiles of essential oils and vegetable oils, but was light on understanding species’ water-soluble profiles. Essential oils delivered the volatile plant profiles and vegetable oils delivered the fatty acid profiles of a species, but the water-soluble phyto-compound profiles had not been a major focus in the industry, which is interesting given how a plant operates and the importance of creating and storing these compounds. The market was missing out on this, and often the past processes of maceration/percolation extraction was destructive to the natural molecules, which is partly why synthetic standardisation was heavily relied on. We saw the Botanical Extract ingredient category as the missing compound profile story of a plant, an untapped reservoir of phyto-nutrients for Cosmetics, Hair Care, Pharmaceuticals, Nutraceuticals and Beverages.
• We wanted to meet the need for traceability and transparency – “I recognised the importance of the growers’ role in providing quality raw materials and the brands’ need to connect their products back to the botanicals’ source. In terms of the Australian Natives, we wanted to connect with Indigenous growers, which was very difficult in the earlier days. It took me 9 months to finally find an Indigenous Enterprise to supply us with Kakadu Plum,” says Lisa Carroll. 
• Positive impact on people and planet – We saw our opportunity to create an inclusive company that promoted new primary industries, had more conscious manufacturing practices (such as dramatically reducing the amount of plant matter used in extraction, which prevents over harvesting, and shortening extraction time for improved energy efficiency). We wanted to offer concentrates to reduce emissions and the footprint of freight. We also created methodologies where the only “waste” is composted biomass, and our rain-harvested (and treated) water used in extractions saves the local public supply at approx. 1000L/day. Next is solar panels!

 
The Background
Back in 2012, we discovered that the botanical extract market didn’t offer a great depth of data/analysis on the botanical extracts to help formulators and brands learn more on why they would use a plant extract. The market appeared to be light on plant profiling, and more anecdotal.
 
Generally, we found that most of the extracts we investigated were either lacking in information on what was in the extract, often had very little botanical matter in the breakdown and often presented clear (water white) which surprised us. There was a great deal of synthetically standardised options. At the time there was very little reference to delivering the natural molecules of the botanical species, and as a result it also correlated with the industry not recognising the phyto-compound value of a botanical extract and often added them into the end of a formulation for a label/packaging claim.
 
We also discovered that very little data was available on Australian Native botanicals, both direct analysis and analysis of water-soluble phyto-compound profiles. We began extracting and analysing plant profiles of species that had never been profiled before or had very little data on them. Many were considered only for the “bushfood industry” and we shared our findings with the world on what Australian species cold offer. We began our journey to build a library of one of the world’s largest megadiversities and inspire others to discover what is has to share.
 
Fast forward to 2021, we see the global industry recognising Cellular Extraction™, and flattered by competitors inspired to mimic our story and practices. There is so much work to be done, and we have been at the forefront of this change. It is nature that does the hard work, and we are interested in exploring the plants that have efficiently evolved unique phyto-compound profiles to survive Australia’s harsh environments.
 
To be honest we were surprised, as this was a new sector for us to enter, and we quickly identified there was a big gap in the Cosmetic and Hair Care market for more information on botanical extracts and what compounds they delivered. The market clearly wanted more natural, traceable sources of ingredients and was moving away from synthetic formats. We continue to build our business based on brands’ and formulators’ demand for more transparent ingredients. On the back of the food safety and traceability movement, consumers are questioning their ingredients more than ever, and we help brands provide natural, plant-based sources.
 

Q -What makes your ingredients unique?  Tell us more about Australian ingredients? 
A - Our ingredients uniqueness is two-fold: the culmination of our innovative extraction processes that draws on existing technologies with new methodologies, and inhouse built technology, plus our selection, research and discovery of unique species, and processes that reduce our impact on the planet.

• Experience combined with innovation : Our team’s expertise across multiple extraction disciplines spans beyond our own process, and leverages new methodologies to existing equipment to achieve new ingredient benchmarks. Over half the technical team has extensive experience at Southern Cross University Plant Science Analytical Services Laboratories, and our senior Biochemist and Biotechnologists have had multiple scientific papers published and reviewed.

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• Strict quality assurance : In addition to our own range of inhouse physical testing (including Total Count microbes, Vit C, Peroxide values and more), our 3rd party plant profile testing and compliance means trust in your ingredients – ISO9001:2015 and Food Grade compliances, along with Organic Certification.

 

• "Full traceability chain of custody from extract batch to grower"

 

• A new frontier to the water-soluble story a species can offer : Our Hydrophilic Cellular Extract is unlike any other hydrophilic extraction process, harnessing a multitude and diversity of compounds and derivatives from a species. Not only is our methodology unique, but we've chosen specific species, both traditional botanicals and Australian natives, that offer distinct benefits, such as Kakadu Plum. Our Kakadu Plum Cellular Extract and now our Kakadu Plum Native EssenXce, have set new benchmarks for activity and concentration of natural vitamin C at 16,000mg/100g (stable for over 24 months). This range suspends what the species has created at the time of harvest. Applying our processes and understanding of solubilities and compounds of interest, we build new profiles of some of the most popular extracts used. Now, brands have stronger “natural” stories, translating botanicals’ natural molecules, in their water-soluble plant profile (entourage).

 

• Oil-soluble botanical infusions : We have created new Australian oil-soluble heroes for new points of difference in “waterless” applications, leveraging our high speed infusion process we developed to reduce oxidation.

Q- Is your ingredient sustainable?

A - We understand the complexity of sustainability and the numerous definitions it can take, but we see it as an attitude and approach to constantly evolve and improve our practices for a more circular approach, with positive social/environmental impacts. It is not something that we feel is a box ticked and done, but a philosophy we operate by. We believe in transparency and a commitment to continual improvement. As we cover in one of our latest blog posts, we think terms like "Clean Beauty" have the potential to be a transformational trend to educate and influence consumers, but we need to get more critical about their precise meanings first.  

At Native, here are just some of our approaches to sustainability :
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1. Multiple supply sources mean we can sustain supply, especially in new emerging botanicals reaching commercialisation and their supply chains.
2. Our process needs far less biomass, which reduces the risk of over harvesting, reduces the risk of cold storage. 
3. Our Cellular Extracts are created using rain-harvested water, saving our local public supply approximately 1000L/day. Our water auditors share that our rain-harvested water is cleaner than the public supply too, which is less load on our deionisation and filtration system.
4. Our process is rapid, using less energy, and uses static states and osmolarity to gently transfer the natural molecules across the cell membrane.
5. We have ingredients that are repurposed or upcycled from waste such as our Rainforest Blue Essential oil and the NSO Kakadu Plum Seed oil.
6. We show growers how they can revalue their crop surplus. We can work with crops that would not be taken by the food industry based on being rejected for size, colour and shape, but are nutrient dense. There is still much more to improve in this space!
7. Our concentration options mean smaller quantities required to ship and therefore less Greenhouse gases.

 
It is a new and evolving industry, and we are excited to see greater access to commercial sources for Indigenous enterprises and greater inclusion in our supply chain, along with partnering with Indigenous owned Co-Ops who work with developing culturally sensitive connections and supply chains with more First Nation people on country. The cultural inclusion in the supply chain is by no means where it needs to be, and greatly needs to be improved, and we see the importance of our shared research on plant profiles and creating market demand playing a part in building demand for stronger and more inclusive primary industries. Brands need growers and Growers need brands. We need to address this together.
 
We delve into our commitment to ethical sourcing and eco-conscious manufacturing in our Coming Clean Report, where we reveal our innovative and eco-responsible manufacturing processes (i.e. using rain-harvested water for our extractions, repurposing, and composting by-products, running our facility on household waste, creating energy and biomass-efficient extraction methods that reduce our impact on our natural resources and raw materials to prevent over-harvesting, and so much more). To us, “Sustainability” is a moving target, to continue improving our practices and evolving as we build planet-friendly solutions across the supply chain.

​“Our mission was to give formulators access to natural bioavailable molecules suspended in their entourage, as alternatives and options to replace the synthetic extracts trying to mimic nature, which we know is not possible today. We don’t want to offer extracts that are an isolated compound, purified or synthesised. We acknowledge there is room for all options. Ours is for formulations that want natural molecules, and a transformative purpose beyond the ingredient,” says Lisa Carroll. ​
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​What is one thing that you could change in the cosmetics industry?

ANTI-AGING Needs To Go.

We need to move away from the negative connotation of aging, and have age-appropriate ambassadors leading the narrative on what it is like to be aging. We need to recognise that aging is a gift in this century, for much of the developed world to achieve life-spans not possible in past centuries. Aging is guaranteed and I would like to see a change in the narrative and inclusion of women (and men) championing the issues of aging specific to the cycles we experience from 45 – 70. We need to celebrate aging. In ancient cultures it was revered for wisdom. This demographic needs a voice more than ever before. Anti-aging should be “well-aging” messages about prevention and good preparation strategies from teens to 35, and maintaining and optimising the health of skin/hair/body/nutrition/psychology etc with specific acknowledgement of hormonal changes, hydration issues, hair loss, stress etc. This broad category needs an overhaul, with global research exploding in “health-span” – we are living longer and want to feel better, look better, function better – it is more than topical support, but will see an explosion in nutritional support in the next decade. Hear more from Lisa on this topic in her latest interview with Cosmetics Design Asia.

SKIN CARE NO LONGER is an AM/PM Routine.

I love seeing the innovative brands move to more prescriptive skin care, offering more than “morning/night” routines, recognizing that consumers have hugely different skin care needs to each other, but also within their own journey even on a daily basis and exposing themselves to. This approach is more encompassing and individual. We don’t hydrate AM/PM, but are recommended all day, so I love nutrition, hydration and protection to the skin being applied in mists throughout the day.

WHO’s TELLING THE STORY?
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I would love the narrative in social media to be balanced with more science-backed information to avoid the proliferation of misinformation and myths, which are not always intentional, but many times swayed for a brands’ benefit. There needs to be more accountability within the industry to ensure that brands can’t spread inaccuracies, and so that consumers can ultimately trust the information they receive, empowered with facts and the full stories to make the right decisions for themselves.