The Canadian Cosmetic Cluster is Launching the 2nd Edition of the ChemBox and we are excited to share with you some of our interviews with the new ChemBox participant suppliers. This is an interview we had with the Canadian west coast company Glacial Bay Organic Clay. Read the interview below and learn about the amazing resources that Canada has to offer.

​1. 1. (a) Tell Us About Your Company?

We are a raw material ingredient supplier of Glacial Marine Clay powder (Sea-silt) to the cosmetic, health & beauty industry.  Our Company practices environmentally sustainable methods to hand harvest & solar dry while processing this clay.  Our clay deposits come from an active glacier located in a pristine area on the west coast of Canada.  Glacial run off deposits these precious minerals into a pristine Estuary, energizing the clay particles with a strong negative charge that helps bind toxins.  
 
ECOCERT COSMOS Certified, this unique clay is both nourishing and detoxifying when applied to the skin.  Unlike any other Clay, the Oceanic nutrients combine with over 50 essential trace minerals to create this magical, healing clay that has an average particle size of 20 microns.  This powerful combination of minerals, negative charge & oceanic nutrients produce skin product formulations that are highly effective, extremely stable with no odor and low heavy metal counts.  

1. (b) What Inspired You to Get into the Cosmetic Ingredients Industry? 

I have worked with several Indigenous First Nations over the years.  While volunteering for one band, I heard about this "Healing Clay" after listening to stories from the Chief & Elders of our local First Nation.  So we followed up to find these unique, rare deposits in the Estuary at the end of this long inlet off the Pacific Coast. We started to test these clay samples and worked with worked with several scientists, doctors, nurses, formulators & chemists to see what positive effects our clay had on the skin.  It was wonderful to find out how beneficial our clay was to restoring the balance of the skin microbiome (good bacteria that protects the skin) and to see the results once applied to the skin.  So we got a group of like minded shareholders together with the goal of bringing this "Healing" clay to market to help various skin conditions including simple things like acme and oily skin to relieving pain from shingles. As there were costs associated with establishing/proving our claims for the healing qualities of our clay, we decided to enter the cosmetic ingredient market for clay masks and clay related products.  This was done to generate funding for future testing to prove our clay has many healing qualities.  But in the meantime, people who will use our clay for products such as clay masks, will also get the added benefits of the healing qualities our clay possesses.

2. What Makes Your Ingredients Unique? 

Several factors combine to give our clay its unique qualities. First is the source of the clay, from ancient volcanic mountain ranges that produced a lot of Montmorillonites and Illites clay.  These clay is known for their high absorbency and stronger cation exchange capacities for absorbing active ingredients and binding to them to produce a more stable clay mask.   Secondly, there is an active glacier and Icefields that feed this ground up clay down long river systems and through electrolysis, our clay particles become negatively charged.  This strong negative charge binds with the active ingredients of the formula to produce stable products also binds positively charged toxins such as bacteria when applied to the skin
Third,  and just as important is that our clay has a very small particle size, which translates to larger surface areas to absorb active ingredients. Fourth, our clay has an anti-inflammatory property that reduces inflammation which helps reduce wrinkles, bags under your eyes and is even used in a suave for professional athletes for muscle aches and inflammation from injury or overuse. Last is the fact that our clay is immersed in the Pacific Ocean for more than half its life, mixing with the rich micronutrients in the water to produce a microbiome environment similar to the human skin.  Thus allowing an easier transfer of active ingredients to the skin, while detoxifying the skin at the same time.

3. Is Your Ingredient Sustainable?  
​
Absolutely! We are fortunate that our mineral claims for our clay material is located at the base of an active Glacier that deposits about 3-4 inches of new clay silt annually. We rotate between the areas of our 10 claims ( each claim is 55 acres) to ensure we do not harvest from the same area every 5 years. We only harvest the clay from the top 12-18 inches of the surface as this region has the richest aerobic clay full of good microbiomes. Thus, we allow time to for each harvest to be replenished with between 15-20 inches of clay before we harvest again.

Microencapsulation technology has been widely explored by many industries including Cosmetics and Pharmaceutical. Cosmetics and Personal Care products often contain biologically active substances that are unstable and sensitive to temperature, pH, light and oxidation.  These substances may undergo undesired reactions that lead to the reduction or loss of their effectiveness or even lead to the degradation of the cosmetic product.  [1]  Microencapsulation of efficacious cosmetics actives can overcome these undesirable results.
 
ACTIVE PROTECTION
Essential Oils, Vitamins, Acids and Natural Extracts are highly oxidative substances that quickly degrade and constantly react with the medium and other cosmetic compounds (light, oxygen, packaging, preservatives, fragrances, surfactants, etc.). By encapsulating it, we grant the stability of the active ingredients and protect them from possible reactions with the formulation or the environment.
 
AQUEOUS BASE
Using a production process that is based on Green-Chemistry allows some encapsulated ingredients to be water-based, free of organic solvents and totally sustainable, reducing waste that may otherwise be harmful to the users and/or the environment.
 
EFFICACY
Increased Permeation
The encapsulation grants a better permeation of the actives in the skin. Unlike the actives in their free form, the encapsulated actives can overcome the stratum corneum layer, reaching the epidermis and delivering the maximum benefits.


[1] https://www.researchgate.net/publication/284754922_Encapsulation_of_cosmetic_active_ingredients_for_topical_application_-_a_review
 

The FIX Method teaches Skin and Massage Therapists a unique Facial Massage Method that lifts and sculpts the face through manual lymphatic drainage and by working with the muscles and fascia of the face and neck.

Registration for this session is coming soon!

Watch this masterclass video for more information on this program and certification.

https://event.webinarjam.com/go/replay/2/zgx0lb7io3a56uv

The Canadian Cosmetic Cluster had the pleasure to speak with Eva Lagarde of ReSource shares with us her opinion on the importance of sustainability and her new program.  

1. Why is sustainability in cosmetics so important for the future of the industry?

Sustainability is no longer a choice. Legislators are moving towards more restrictions on non-sustainable products and consumers are making more drastic choices - not moving on!

2. What are the top 3 misconceptions about sustainable cosmetics?

• There is one perfect solution
• It's easy and straightforward
• A brand or a supplier can do it alone

Other types of misconception

• Glass is better than plastic because it has less CO2 impact
• Synthetic ingredients are bad for the skin and the planet
• Consumers want to pay more for more sustainable products and are ready to go the extra mile

3.What country do you think has been doing the most to be sustainable? 

Germany has done great things in terms of sustainability,  and they have one of the highest recycling rate in the world for instance. Europe in general is moving fast and adopting sustainable behaviours

4. What is one simple change a startup on a limited budget can do about sustainability?

Make sure that they have clear CLAIMS and not adding to the confusion using words such as "non-toxic" formula, or "plastic-free" or "zero-waste"... I think these type of claims are greenwashing.

Re-sources helps beauty brands decipher sustainability with an 8-week online course about product development, packaging and sustainability. Targeted at marketing professionals to help them substantiate their marketing claims, understand which materials to pick and why, or how to move to a circular approach to beauty. Offering a 360 approach to beauty. We're giving beauty professionals the keys to decisions that will impact their business, consumers and the planet.
​
Soon re-sources will also offer a course on formulation, to give a rounded approach to product development and key issues in moving to a eco-friendly beauty. More information is in the file below.

Last Month the Canadian Cosmetic Cluster had the pleasure of attending the virtual "Canadian German Conference on Cosmetics, Toiletries and Cleaning Products" on September 21, 2021.

This was a great event that was made possible by the fantastic team of the Canadian German Chamber of Commerce. 

It was a great experience to be part of the panel 1 and 2. The speakers from Germany and Canada gave a thorough overview of topics such as sustainability and the science behind cosmetics.

For future reference, please also feel free to download our speaker presentations:

• Cosmetics Alliance Canada - Darren Prasznik, President & CEO [Access Presentation]
• German Cosmetic Toiletry, Perfumery and Detergent Association - Thomas Keiser, Director General [Access Presentation]

Sarah Wirtz

Project Manager

Phone: +1 (416) 598-7092

Email: sarah.wirtz@germanchamber.ca

 

Canadian German Chamber of Industry and Commerce Inc.

480 University Ave. Suite 1500, Toronto

ON M5G 1V2, Canada

kanada.ahk.de/en/
​

​2. What was the biggest challenge you faced during the pandemic?
 
Our experience of the pandemic varied wildly from month to month, sometimes day to day.
 
Initially, we felt the loss of a few direct-to-consumer tradeshows that we had heavily invested in, as well as losing our DIY Workshop offerings which we had been hosting in Toronto. 
 
After the shock wore off, our customers really showed up for us as we pivoted to offer our DIY Candle Kit, which we pre-sold to cover our inventory costs. The pre-sales sold out, and once we officially launched the kit, the orders didn’t stop coming in (and still haven’t!).
 
With the longest lockdown anywhere in North America here in Ontario- we also struggled to grow our retail presence as our local shops were shuttered, but in retrospect, I am grateful for the time it allowed me to perfect our formulas, packaging and processes. Now, when I approach retailers, I am so much more confident in our products.
 
The pandemic also forced us to move away from relying on our in-person retail sales and DIY events. It encouraged me to grow our online presence- by finding new ways to connect to our customers, such as launching our IGTV series “The Dirt on Clean Beauty”, and making Tik Toks! 
 
Ultimately, I think we grew more than we would have without the pandemic since it inspired me to see our brand as Direct-To-Consumer more so than previously and act accordingly by improving our presence online and sharing my own story more. 
 
3. Were there any positive changes to small businesses post-pandemic? 
 
This is a tough question to answer since I am not so convinced we are “post-pandemic”. There is some talk that trade shows will return in time for the Holiday sales run, but I am not relying on anyone's product- or platform- for our sales. The positive change is more so to my approach, which is to diversify as much as we can.
 
My main takeaway from this whole experience- which kicked off just one year into having our product- is that we have to stay as lean and nimble as possible. This is why we still make everything in-house, and why we created our made-to-order custom skincare line. It allows us to only make what there is demand for, keep our overhead as low as possible while we continue to deal with uncertain times, even more, uncertain supply chains and economic trends. 
 
The benefits of custom-made skincare are so massive to the consumer, that I think waiting a few more days for a product to ship out is totally worth it, so I am planning to stay small and nimble for a while yet. 
 
4. Is DIY Beauty more sustainable?
 
DIY Skincare definitely comes with its own setbacks, such as additional packaging for all the different elements of the product you’re making. The way we offset this is to include our full formula with our DIY Deodorant kits, so that folks can literally create their own product, from scratch, using bulk ingredients if they so desire. And of course, all our packaging is biodegradable, recyclable and plastic-free wherever possible.
 
As zero-waste and package-free shops start to pop up in more and more neighbourhoods, I could see a world where certain skincare ingredients are easier to come by, package-free and in smaller quantities (like MCT oil, cetyl alcohol, glycerin, facial clays etc). In that world, you’d need to have a good recipe to follow, and working knowledge of basic ingredients, which our kits can offer!
 
For now, DIY Skincare is at least showing the consumer that another way of approaching their skincare routine is possible. Generally, consumers are encouraged to go through a trial-and-error process to find products that “work” for them. It’s somehow become normal to try 5 natural deodorants before finding “the one”- which is the opposite of sustainable, even if the products themselves are sustainably packaged (and often they’re not). 
 
This is the benefit of DIY-ing: you actually learn through the customization process what you’re looking for, you input your needs upfront and that makes you consider what would work for you, specifically. So there are a few more steps to getting a Natural Deodorant from us since you take a quiz that makes you reflect on your needs (as opposed to just grabbing something off the shelf that worked for someone else). In that way, DIY-ing is less of a trial-and-error process with less consumption required overall.
 
Ultimately, I think “skincare” in any form will only be sustainable once consumers are spared all of the fear-based marketing, which indie and “green beauty” brands are equally guilty of. The fewer consumers feel they NEED skincare (to fix themselves, look better, ageless, be “chemical-free” etc), the fewer products folks will panic buy, and the more sustainable the industry will be. That’s why educating my customers about their skin, and how it works, has always been a priority for me, including arming them with information about how to buy less. The industry also needs to make less stuff, ultimately. DIY skincare is slower-paced in so many ways, which to me seems more in line with a sustainable lifestyle.
 
My hope is that DIY Skincare is just one of many ways that the skincare industry could approach something of a sustainable industry, where consumers feel empowered by transparency and knowledge to make decisions that work for them!