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Industry Voices - XO Treatment Room's Annie Graham

28/10/2021

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One of the great things that the ChemBox has allowed us to do, is to get to know so many amazing cosmetic formulators. 

This week we interviewed Annie Graham from the XO Treatment Room. Annie is a wonderful cosmetic formulator who is the very definition of a knowledgeable beauty professional. Her rich experience in the industry gives us a unique look in the edition of industry voices.

The Interview


1. Tell us about your cosmetic journey?

I opened XO Treatment Room 7 years ago. I was not from the beauty industry, but my love of science, lasers and chemicals led me to the world of skincare. I love it so much. We have a wonderful treatment room where we can treat clients with all kinds of cool energies to help them achieve good skin.

We also have a lab that we produce our in house line (xo face care). I love the creativity and science in cosmetic chemistry. And at the end - hopefully you help someone or at least make them happy. 

2. What are your top favourite formulas?

I really like the Milk Skin Care line and their use of Sodium Stearate. It’s such a unique experience for the consumer and they really did and elegant job putting it all together. The sticks are just fun. 

For formulations I’ve made - my vitamin C is my favourite. I love Ethylated Vitamin C and I love gel textures. 

3. Is the story of the ingredients important for you?

I like to know about he ingredients. The stories I like are non fiction tho. Ha ha. I like when things read like a manual. What/how and when. 

4. What would you change in the cosmetic industry?

I love that cosmetic chemists and formulators are being consulted and listened to so much more. There are so many facets of the beauty industry and I really like that more people are being heard - not just brand stories. I’ve seen that change start and I I hope that continues. Derms, Estheticians, Regulatory, Toxicology, Packaging - I like to hear from everybody. And I think that change has started.

5. What is your dream product to make?

Oh boy. I think that changes daily. Canada is rather conservative with it’s ingredient approvals so I guess I dream of using certain European Sunscreen Filters or Azelaic Acid or some of the retinol esters we don’t have access to here. I want the things I cant have lol.
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A Look at A Beauty With Native Extracts

11/10/2021

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Who is NATIVE EXTRACTS?​
New Plant Profiles - New Access to Natural Vitamin C

NATIVE EXTRACTS is an Australian company leading the evolution of the plant extract through multiple scientific methodologies, new technology development and conscious manufacturing in the pursuit to expand knowledge and access to analytic results of natural phyto-compound profiles. As a result of our extraction innovations, back in 2012-13 we publicly launched an unprecedented library of water-soluble profiles on Australian Natives, most of which had not been seen before. We also announced our breakthrough in the ability to harness the natural Vitamin C molecule in an aqueous format and have further expanded our capabilities in holding the highly unstable molecule for over 24 months, as well as new concentration levels in our recently launched EssenXce range, nutrient-dense liquids, where we achieved 15,000-16,000mg/100g natural Vitamin C in the ESS Kakadu Plum EssenXce 5:1. We strive to provide traceable, transparent and 'true to nature' ingredients that go beyond the molecules, but tell bigger stories about biodiversity, unique botanical species, conscious manufacturing practices, building partnerships and science-backed R&D on plant profiling. Due to industry recognition of our continued advances, expertise and quality work we are chosen to do R&D and commercialise high value crops for Cosmetics, Hair Care, Pharmaceutical and Nutraceutical development, Food & Beverage. We are evolving into a biotech company that offers more than ingredients, but engages R&D partnerships (commercial and university driven) for natural solutions to human problems.
"Our vision was simple but complex, like nature - to develop a range that truly delivers the power of nature, and is unique, innovative, creates new points of difference and gives brands access to the natural molecules in their entourage as they exist in the species. We are more than high value natural ingredients, and so are our brand partners. We are conscious manufacturers that focus on energy efficiency, significant water saving practices, recycling and composting waste. We value close collaborations with our partners from brands to manufacturers and growers, with a mission to improve Indigenous enterprise and inclusion throughout our supply chain across direct sourcing and co-ops. I dove into the cosmetic ingredients space knowing that there was so much room to improve the quality of extracts, to create new formats, to research unique species and share the discoveries for other to innovate with, to collaborate with brands to translate research into innovative natural products, and to diversify and strengthen our primary industry. We are now chosen by growers to be their scale and commercialisation partners, creating new market for them, whilst serving as a platform for new access to world-first innovations and discoveries. We are only at the beginning of an explosion of global research and new knowledge of what botanicals can offer as solutions across multiple industry sectors,"says Lisa Carroll, Innovator and Director.

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Ingredient Profile With Glacial Bay Organic Clay

11/10/2021

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The Canadian Cosmetic Cluster is Launching the 2nd Edition of the ChemBox and we are excited to share with you some of our interviews with the new ChemBox participant suppliers. This is an interview we had with the Canadian west coast company Glacial Bay Organic Clay. Read the interview below and learn about the amazing resources that Canada has to offer.
​1. 1. (a) Tell Us About Your Company?

We are a raw material ingredient supplier of Glacial Marine Clay powder (Sea-silt) to the cosmetic, health & beauty industry.  Our Company practices environmentally sustainable methods to hand harvest & solar dry while processing this clay.  Our clay deposits come from an active glacier located in a pristine area on the west coast of Canada.  Glacial run off deposits these precious minerals into a pristine Estuary, energizing the clay particles with a strong negative charge that helps bind toxins.  
 
ECOCERT COSMOS Certified, this unique clay is both nourishing and detoxifying when applied to the skin.  Unlike any other Clay, the Oceanic nutrients combine with over 50 essential trace minerals to create this magical, healing clay that has an average particle size of 20 microns.  This powerful combination of minerals, negative charge & oceanic nutrients produce skin product formulations that are highly effective, extremely stable with no odor and low heavy metal counts.  

1. (b) What Inspired You to Get into the Cosmetic Ingredients Industry? 

I have worked with several Indigenous First Nations over the years.  While volunteering for one band, I heard about this "Healing Clay" after listening to stories from the Chief & Elders of our local First Nation.  So we followed up to find these unique, rare deposits in the Estuary at the end of this long inlet off the Pacific Coast. We started to test these clay samples and worked with worked with several scientists, doctors, nurses, formulators & chemists to see what positive effects our clay had on the skin.  It was wonderful to find out how beneficial our clay was to restoring the balance of the skin microbiome (good bacteria that protects the skin) and to see the results once applied to the skin.  So we got a group of like minded shareholders together with the goal of bringing this "Healing" clay to market to help various skin conditions including simple things like acme and oily skin to relieving pain from shingles. As there were costs associated with establishing/proving our claims for the healing qualities of our clay, we decided to enter the cosmetic ingredient market for clay masks and clay related products.  This was done to generate funding for future testing to prove our clay has many healing qualities.  But in the meantime, people who will use our clay for products such as clay masks, will also get the added benefits of the healing qualities our clay possesses.

2. What Makes Your Ingredients Unique? 

Several factors combine to give our clay its unique qualities. First is the source of the clay, from ancient volcanic mountain ranges that produced a lot of Montmorillonites and Illites clay.  These clay is known for their high absorbency and stronger cation exchange capacities for absorbing active ingredients and binding to them to produce a more stable clay mask.   Secondly, there is an active glacier and Icefields that feed this ground up clay down long river systems and through electrolysis, our clay particles become negatively charged.  This strong negative charge binds with the active ingredients of the formula to produce stable products also binds positively charged toxins such as bacteria when applied to the skin
Third,  and just as important is that our clay has a very small particle size, which translates to larger surface areas to absorb active ingredients. Fourth, our clay has an anti-inflammatory property that reduces inflammation which helps reduce wrinkles, bags under your eyes and is even used in a suave for professional athletes for muscle aches and inflammation from injury or overuse. Last is the fact that our clay is immersed in the Pacific Ocean for more than half its life, mixing with the rich micronutrients in the water to produce a microbiome environment similar to the human skin.  Thus allowing an easier transfer of active ingredients to the skin, while detoxifying the skin at the same time.

3. Is Your Ingredient Sustainable?  
​

Absolutely! We are fortunate that our mineral claims for our clay material is located at the base of an active Glacier that deposits about 3-4 inches of new clay silt annually. We rotate between the areas of our 10 claims ( each claim is 55 acres) to ensure we do not harvest from the same area every 5 years. We only harvest the clay from the top 12-18 inches of the surface as this region has the richest aerobic clay full of good microbiomes. Thus, we allow time to for each harvest to be replenished with between 15-20 inches of clay before we harvest again.


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Benefits of Encapsulation (Featuring Nanovetores Encapsulation technology)

11/10/2021

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Lisa Fryer

Quadra Ingredients

How to make efficacious cosmetics actives easier to use?  ​

Microencapsulation technology has been widely explored by many industries including Cosmetics and Pharmaceutical. Cosmetics and Personal Care products often contain biologically active substances that are unstable and sensitive to temperature, pH, light and oxidation.  These substances may undergo undesired reactions that lead to the reduction or loss of their effectiveness or even lead to the degradation of the cosmetic product.  [1]  Microencapsulation of efficacious cosmetics actives can overcome these undesirable results.
 
ACTIVE PROTECTION
Essential Oils, Vitamins, Acids and Natural Extracts are highly oxidative substances that quickly degrade and constantly react with the medium and other cosmetic compounds (light, oxygen, packaging, preservatives, fragrances, surfactants, etc.). By encapsulating it, we grant the stability of the active ingredients and protect them from possible reactions with the formulation or the environment.
 
AQUEOUS BASE
Using a production process that is based on Green-Chemistry allows some encapsulated ingredients to be water-based, free of organic solvents and totally sustainable, reducing waste that may otherwise be harmful to the users and/or the environment.
 
EFFICACY
Increased Permeation
The encapsulation grants a better permeation of the actives in the skin. Unlike the actives in their free form, the encapsulated actives can overcome the stratum corneum layer, reaching the epidermis and delivering the maximum benefits.


[1] https://www.researchgate.net/publication/284754922_Encapsulation_of_cosmetic_active_ingredients_for_topical_application_-_a_review
 


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The Fix Method Facial Massage Program

11/10/2021

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The FIX Method teaches Skin and Massage Therapists a unique Facial Massage Method that lifts and sculpts the face through manual lymphatic drainage and by working with the muscles and fascia of the face and neck.

Registration for this session is coming soon!

Watch this masterclass video for more information on this program and certification.

https://event.webinarjam.com/go/replay/2/zgx0lb7io3a56uv

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Re/Source - for Actionable Sustainability in Beauty

11/10/2021

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The Canadian Cosmetic Cluster had the pleasure to speak with Eva Lagarde of ReSource shares with us her opinion on the importance of sustainability and her new program.  
1. Why is sustainability in cosmetics so important for the future of the industry?

Sustainability is no longer a choice. Legislators are moving towards more restrictions on non-sustainable products and consumers are making more drastic choices - not moving on!

2. What are the top 3 misconceptions about sustainable cosmetics?
  • There is one perfect solution
  • It's easy and straightforward
  • A brand or a supplier can do it alone

Other types of misconception
  • Glass is better than plastic because it has less CO2 impact
  • Synthetic ingredients are bad for the skin and the planet
  • Consumers want to pay more for more sustainable products and are ready to go the extra mile

3.What country do you think has been doing the most to be sustainable? 

Germany has done great things in terms of sustainability,  and they have one of the highest recycling rate in the world for instance. Europe in general is moving fast and adopting sustainable behaviours

4. What is one simple change a startup on a limited budget can do about sustainability?

Make sure that they have clear CLAIMS and not adding to the confusion using words such as "non-toxic" formula, or "plastic-free" or "zero-waste"... I think these type of claims are greenwashing.
Read the free white paper on Packaging Innovations: How to choose the best sustainable solution for your brand.
Read the white paper here

New Program

Re-sources helps beauty brands decipher sustainability with an 8-week online course about product development, packaging and sustainability. Targeted at marketing professionals to help them substantiate their marketing claims, understand which materials to pick and why, or how to move to a circular approach to beauty. Offering a 360 approach to beauty. We're giving beauty professionals the keys to decisions that will impact their business, consumers and the planet.
​
Soon re-sources will also offer a course on formulation, to give a rounded approach to product development and key issues in moving to a eco-friendly beauty. More information is in the file below.
pr-re.sources_september21.docx.pdf
File Size: 824 kb
File Type: pdf
Download File

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Canadian German Conference on Cosmetics, Toiletries and Cleaning Products

11/10/2021

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Last Month the Canadian Cosmetic Cluster had the pleasure of attending the virtual "Canadian German Conference on Cosmetics, Toiletries and Cleaning Products" on September 21, 2021.

This was a great event that was made possible by the fantastic team of the Canadian German Chamber of Commerce. 

It was a great experience to be part of the panel 1 and 2. The speakers from Germany and Canada gave a thorough overview of topics such as sustainability and the science behind cosmetics.
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For future reference, please also feel free to download our speaker presentations:
  • Cosmetics Alliance Canada - Darren Prasznik, President & CEO [Access Presentation]
  • German Cosmetic Toiletry, Perfumery and Detergent Association - Thomas Keiser, Director General [Access Presentation]
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    Canadian Cosmetic Cluster Team 

    Uniting Canadian Cosmetics and Bringing it to the World

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Copyright © 2021
  • Welcome
    • Our Services >
      • Beauty Business School >
        • Week 1
        • Week 2
        • Week 3
        • Week 4
      • Formulation Labs
    • Canadian Cosmetic Cluster
    • Trade Missions >
      • How It Works
    • Privacy Policy
  • Cluster Updates
  • Welcome to the ChemBox
    • ChemBox 2nd Edition >
      • Nanovetores
      • TC USA
      • Full Circle Beauty NECTA
      • Native Extracts
      • Glacial Bay Clay
      • CoSeed Bio Pharm Co
      • Simply Ingredients - Green Tea Wax
      • NAP Tea Tree Oil
    • Pilot ChemBox >
      • Provital
      • Biolie - Ruby Red
      • INdermal - DDS Retinol
      • Mirexus - Phytospherix
      • Full Circle Beauty
      • MMP
      • Natural Immunogenics
      • Simply Ingredients - Hyaluronic Acid
      • Manicouagan Sea Minerals
      • Packaging
  • Cluster Members
    • Canadian Cosmetic Industry
    • Raw Material Suppliers
    • Packaging Suppliers
    • Cosmetic Manufacturers
    • Claims and Testing
  • ChemBox Solutions