Benefits of Encapsulation (Featuring Nanovetores Encapsulation technology)

Lisa Fryer

Quadra Ingredients

How to make efficacious cosmetics actives easier to use?  ​

Microencapsulation technology has been widely explored by many industries including Cosmetics and Pharmaceutical. Cosmetics and Personal Care products often contain biologically active substances that are unstable and sensitive to temperature, pH, light and oxidation.  These substances may undergo undesired reactions that lead to the reduction or loss of their effectiveness or even lead to the degradation of the cosmetic product.  [1]  Microencapsulation of efficacious cosmetics actives can overcome these undesirable results.
 
ACTIVE PROTECTION
Essential Oils, Vitamins, Acids and Natural Extracts are highly oxidative substances that quickly degrade and constantly react with the medium and other cosmetic compounds (light, oxygen, packaging, preservatives, fragrances, surfactants, etc.). By encapsulating it, we grant the stability of the active ingredients and protect them from possible reactions with the formulation or the environment.
 
AQUEOUS BASE
Using a production process that is based on Green-Chemistry allows some encapsulated ingredients to be water-based, free of organic solvents and totally sustainable, reducing waste that may otherwise be harmful to the users and/or the environment.
 
EFFICACY
Increased Permeation
The encapsulation grants a better permeation of the actives in the skin. Unlike the actives in their free form, the encapsulated actives can overcome the stratum corneum layer, reaching the epidermis and delivering the maximum benefits.


[1] https://www.researchgate.net/publication/284754922_Encapsulation_of_cosmetic_active_ingredients_for_topical_application_-_a_review
 

• Safe Particles -We work with labile particles, biocompatible and biodegradable, bigger than 200nm (nanometer), which does not generate risks to users or the environment.

• Multifunctional Particles - The main function of the capsules is to protect the active ingredients and increase its permeation. But Nanovetores’ capsules are multifunctional, they work synergistically with the encapsulated ingredients to enhance the benefits of its usage. There are two kinds of capsules:
• Lipid particle, Multifunctionality: Moisturizing and Enhanced Permeation
• Biopolymer particle, Multifunctionality: Cutaneous Firmness and Hair Adhesion

 

• Surface Charge Control - The control over the capsule’s surface charge promotes a better fixation of the capsules when in contact with the surface. Example: In active ingredients for hair products, the capsules have a positive surface charge, that will be attracted by the hair’s natural negative charge.

 

• Monodispersity - We perform the control over the size of the particles, granting the uniformity of the active ingredients’capsule size and ensuring that all of them have the proper permeation for each specific benefit.

 

• Morphological Control - We develop different types of particles for different applications.

​PROLONGED RELEASE THROUGH SPECIFIC TRIGGERS
​
Our technology allows a prolonged release of the active ingredients through 5 innovative and specific triggers. 

• Water - The addition of water sets-off the release of the actives from the capsules. Example: Our Instant Base has a self-emulsifying action. When water is added, it forms a bright and smooth homogeneous cream. 

 

• Temperature - A heat source promotes the variation of the capsule’s temperature, releasing the active ingredient. Example: Hair dryers or Straightening Irons.

 

• Enzymatic - The Enzymes promote the breakage of the capsules, releasing the active in the deeper layers of the skin through time, this trigger enables controlled and sustained release of the active ingredients, granting superior benefits and no irritability.

 

• pH Variation - The pH variation leads to the disruption of the capsules, releasing the active ingredients. For example, sweating promotes a skin pH variation, this change will release the actives.

 

• Friction - The friction on the capsules promotes their breakage and the active’s release. We have developed encapsulated fragrances that after friction, releases a stronger scent. The biocompatible composition of these capsules makes them safe for application in personal care.

Let’s take a look at one of our favorite cosmetic active – Retinol – and review NV Retinol and the benefits of encapsulation.
 
Retinol is commonly used in Cosmetics and Personal Care products for its Anti-Aging effects: 

• promotes cellular turnover
• re-balances skin tone
• reduces appearance of wrinkles and fine lines
• anti-acne.

​
But we don’t talk about the undesirable effects of retinol:

• highly unstable and reactive
• creates chromophores when oxidized
• can cause irritation or redness
• refrigeration is recommended (or nitrogen blanket) 
• special packaging is required

NV Retinol provides the following benefits:

• non-nano particles (greater than 200nm) 
• an easy to use liquid dispersion (post add)
• encapsulated for enhanced color stability
• controlled release for less irritation
• no special production controls (no temperature sensitivity)
• cost effective when compared to non-encapsulated retinol

Nanovetores Group is an innovative company established in Brazil known for the development of microencapsulated active ingredients. Encapsulation maximizes the performance of active ingredients granting protection, deeper permeation and control over the release of the active compound.
Nanovetores company is committed to sustainability, where all products are designed and produced in clean and green processes. The products are manufactured using only water as solvent, the process is totally free of organic solvents, which grants safety for the environment and final users.
Nanovetores’ Research, Development and Innovation team comprises renowned professionals with more than 15 years of international experience and expertise in active ingredients encapsulation systems. In addition, all sectors within Nanovetores work synergistically to provide the most appropriate solutions for each need in a fast and proactive way.