Industry Voices Interview With Dr.Julian Sass

In the vast landscape of the cosmetics industry, professionals often embark on unconventional paths, weaving through diverse fields to ultimately find their niche. For chemist and consultant Dr. Julian Sass, the journey into the world of cosmetics was indeed a unique one. Starting with a background in Mathematics and a deep dive into Biomathematics and Statistics during grad school, their trajectory took an unexpected turn towards skincare and cosmetics.   Dr. Sass shares his views on cosmetics and navigating the complexities of the cosmetics industry with expertise and enthusiasm.

1. Can you share with us your journey into becoming the world of cosmetics? 

My journey was a strange one for sure. My undergrad degree was in Mathematics, and then I went to grad school for a PhD in Biomathematics and Statistics. During grad school, I became more interested in skincare and cosmetics and began to research more about how topical products affect the skin. I also began creating content on social media about various skincare science topic as I learned more. After grad school, I worked for a brand in R&D, product development, and consumer education. It was there that I learned how to formulate and got an intensive crash course in cosmetic chemistry. I also put together all of the testing for claim substantiation. Now, I'm an independent chemist and consultant, doing formulation and consulting for product development and claim substantiation.

2. How do you anticipate technology and consumer preferences evolving in the coming years, and how does this influence your work as a cosmetic chemist?

One thing I foresee is AI becoming a more prevalent tool used in our industry, for better or for worse. I'm hesitant about the usefulness of these tools for some tools, especially for formulation development, but many brands now want to use AI to "personalize" skincare for their consumers. I think more brands will begin to have different versions of formulas tailored for different concerns to help consumers feel that their products are made especially for them.

3. Given the increasing emphasis on sustainability and clean beauty, how do you approach ingredient selection and formulation to meet these growing industry demands? 

" Clean" ingredients can be a challenge, with different retailers having different standards, and some brands having standards beyond those. One of the more challenging things is working with natural preservatives, as their performance isn't quite up there with their synthetic alternatives. When it comes to sustainability, I encourage my clients to understand the full life cycle of the ingredients, especially natural ones that may be wild harvested, and understand their impact, rather than making simple decisions that may not have the environmental impact they want, like opting for glass instead of plastic.

4. Can you walk us through your personal skincare routine? 

My routine is rather extensive, since I'm always testing products for content or my own formulas. My AM routine consists of a cleanser, hydrating toner or mist, AHA/BHA, vitamin C, brightening serum, barrier repair serum, an antioxidant serum, lightweight moisturizer, then sunscreen. My PM routine is rather similar except I'll add a cleansing balm or oil at the beginning of my routine, swap out the AHA/BHA and the vitamin C for peptide products, use a heavier moisturizer, and skip the SPF.

5. Looking ahead, what excites you most about the future of the cosmetics industry? 

I'm most excited about hair care honestly. I feel like so many avenues in hair are becoming more popular, with bond builders rising in popularity and the general category expanding in popularity. I think hair affords so many opportunities for growth as things currently stand.

Visit Dr. Julian Sass's Website